CHEF’S JUST WANT TO HAVE FUN…AGAIN

In reading a recent, somewhat sad article written by long term New York Times restaurant reviewer Peter Wells, I was inspired to rediscover (and edit) a column I wrote more than a decade ago for the defunct Merrimack Valley Magazine. Wells writes about the waning culture of both hospitality and the personalized touch–my beloved industry being compromised in too many ways to count. Labor issues, ongoing pandemic fallout (despite the opinion of the ignorant), ever challenging legislation and economic pressures continue to erode our once booming restaurant culture.  I regularly ask myself and others, how do we revamp and preserve the fun that was prevalent when this was originally written in 2012, during the “golden years” of restaurant revelry.  Beginning with the soup…

As the temperature in the Valley recently surpassed 90 degrees, and a good 10 degrees hotter than that in the kitchen, I queried about upcoming specials. COBBLESTONES Chef Enx Dadulas, looking as cool as a community cucumber, sported his signature, ever-glint in the squint, exclaimed with TV game-show-answer-certainty; “Gazpacho!” Reminding me somehow of the mischievous kid who gets caught with his hand in the cookie jar in some long-ago sitcom–his grab was more for the seasonal bounty; for whatever homegrown produce he would use to produce this cool and revitalizing summer soup that epitomizes “garden fresh.”

Summer in the Merrimack Valley is the mother lode. For all those inspired by a blazing sun — from wiggly kids anticipating the pool, to fishermen who wake a bit earlier with an extra pep in their step — many independent chefs of New England begin to stir with the excitement that accompanies the local harvest. With ripening anticipation, they welcome the first herbs from the garden, local vegetables with wiry roots and soil still intact, supersized zucchinis, the insanely sweet and naturally sized berries all arrive before the beautifully juicy, luscious and leaky heirloom tomatoes burst onto the scene.

Chefs (and some of us independent restaurateurs) cultivate seasonality for our menus for a variety of reasons: from ethical pursuit, to the market savvy, to the finger painter at heart, the opportunity to create and handcraft with the most fresh and available is at its height along with the sun. With a glowing change in perspective, we welcome new-again local ingredients that inspire fresh imaginings, pairings and creation–all in support of our farmer-neighbors.

We seek to be better while embracing the notion that “local” is better for the community, and our collective health. Green is green. Our Chefs often cultivate on their very own property or our restaurant patios. They visit local farmers-markets regularly, accept paper bags of abundance from guests proud of their own garden gifts and desirous to share. We occasionally purchase locally raised poultry and pork despite federal restrictions that make doing so most often cost prohibitive for our demographic. Chefs love herbs and (Fat Moon!) mushrooms, and one of our own recently made fresh mozzarella from the milk she squeezed directly from the teat. (We tend to love farms). We pickle, preserve, cure; we can … and do!  Enraptured and with perhaps a hint of jealousy, I love to listen to the most impassioned speak of their culinary vision; I can only imagine having the same skills. Of course, there’s also the perspective of the late, great Chef Rob Jean who once smirked; “It’s my job to take what God has provided and not f*ck it up!” Anyone whose ever eaten a summer peach can relate, holding it gently as that sweet juice runs down their chin. Praise be.

Just ask my farmer-friend Tom Smith of Smith Farm in Hudson, N.H.: from a quality perspective, there is no doubt that corn picked that very morning tastes better than any trucked in from afar. It’s a sugar thing. From the snap peas to purple potatoes, lest we forget the No.1 reason many of us choose to do this for a living: as we ramped up for ramps, fiddled with fiddleheads and as your independent Valley chefs favor favas or passionately purée peaches, create a sweet corn compote for a spicy, slow-smoked Blood Farm pork shoulder, as we pair pears with piquant jalapeños, and watch with amusement while fresh blueberries bob in our summer wheat beer, as rainbow beets adorn Cape caught striped bass, and salaciously sticky strawberry syrup flavors the mojito of the month, I ask you is this fun, or what!!!

Please watch social media or visit local restaurants to enjoy what’s in store for the remaining two months of Summer!